
Stylist Tabitha Simmons by Jason Bell for Vogue UK
How much is enough?
As someone with limited means, I ask myself this question a lot. I fully believe that there is nothing wrong with finding pleasure in material objects. Spending isn't inherently bad, it's just tricky.
Minimalism is often seen as being less mired in consumerism, but if you've ever looked at the price tag on a piece of Céline, you'll know that's a myth. It's weird that someone can own 15 pairs of Chanel trousers and still call themselves a minimalist, don't you think? There's quality and quantity, but style doesn't belong squarely in the domain of one or the other.
At 21, I feel as though I should be experimenting with clothes, but my dwindling bank account can't justify a lot of frivolous spending. This post is therefore based on a minimalism of necessity—not just aesthetics. And anyhow, there is no right or wrong time to experiment.
If you feel lost in the Money-Fashion Black Hole of Depression, this one's for you. Here are 5 tips for feeling like you already have enough.
1. Reduce consumption of fashion magazines & blogs
Last month, I purged my bookshelf of a shit-ton of old U.S. Vogues AND IT FELT AWESOME. But before it felt awesome...it felt awful. I wanted to clip my favourite articles, but this meant that I also had to flip through page after page of lithe, poreless creatures wearing clothes that could finance my move out of the suburbs. My self-esteem jumped off a cliff. And yet, this horrible process also taught me that I can and should be selective about the fashion mags and blogs that I let into my "sacred space" (i.e. Google Reader). It's also a great way to nurture your personal style, since it forces you to figure out what really inspires you, and let go of the rest.
2. Embrace Uniforms
Here's the thing about wearing the same outfit all the time: You will think that everyone notices the fact that you only wear black v-neck sweaters, when in truth, no one will. Coming up with new outfits can be a real hoot, but most days, it isn't practical. Some people decide to go on a 6-item clothing diet, but don't think your uniform has to be limiting. Identify some unifying principles that might make getting dressed less hectic: your favourite colour or colour combination (say, navy and mustard yellow), silhouette (long tops over long skirts), or signature item (a cognac leather belt). Then go ahead and wear the hell out of those v-neck sweaters.
3. The Master List
My tragic flaw as a shopper is that I actually have really bad instincts. Like, tweed J.Crew blazer with shoulder-pads bad. But I think I'm getting better, mostly because I keep a master list comprised of basics and/or items that I've mentally been saving space for in my wardrobe. I think it helps channel the desire to shop and accumulate into something more concrete. Making a list is all about considering whether an item is truly worth adding to your wardrobe. I'd recommend mood-boarding your little heart out with this one. I sometimes reach a kind of collage nirvana, wherein just looking at the pictures is satisfying enough. Whoa. Consider list-making as an exercise in subtraction rather than addition. Focus on paring it down to the essentials.
One caveat: it is possible to stick too closely to your list. I think one should always be open to moments of fashion fortuity. If I'd always sworn by my list, I wouldn't have made my best-ever impulse purchase: a gorgeous bias-cut dress that I will either be married or (more likely) buried in. The heart wants what the heart wants.
4. Walk Away and Wait
Speaking of impulse buys, consider this: If you're not 100% sold on an item, why would you ever walk up to the counter and hand over your hard-earned money? I almost failed high school math, but even I know that makes zero sense. If thinking about buying something is making you anxious/causing you to sweat/otherwise embarrass yourself, just...walk away. It will make you feel instantly better. If you find yourself thinking about the one that got away over the coming days and weeks, you can always go back.
5. The Shopping Ban
This seems like the most hardcore, impossible tip on this list, but in my experience it's actually the easiest. In fact, it's probably more accurate to call it a vacation from shopping. A shopping ban is basically a more fully-realized version of "walking away and waiting" in that you wait so long, you actually forget why you ever needed to shop in the first place. It's as simple as avoiding malls and stores (trickier if you work in one, I know), and not checking your usual e-commerce sites. Brainstorm a few other things you can do with all the time you'd normally spend awkwardly maneuvering in change rooms. Go for a walk, read a book, or even learn how to make your own clothes—I know, it's blowing your mind, right?!
Above all, remember that those of us who write, read, and think about fashion are already pretty lucky. Remember too that the head on your shoulders is vastly more important than the clothes on your back.
Other Resources:
- Kat from nogoodforme.com wrote a super-helpful article on reselling clothes at secondhand shops.
- Dead Fleurette has plenty of articles on the subject; I think the best place to start is with "The Long Way to the Perfect Wardrobe" Part 1 and 2.
- Gala Darling (whose aesthetic and attitudes differ from my own) has written a series on spending, appropriately titled "Mo' Money, Mo' Problems": Part 1, 2 and 3 that is worth a read.



22 comments:
Stephanie, I like your insights here. I think it's really great that more and more blogs I read reveal the material costs and issues associated with trying to gain a sense of personal style. I have never tried a post this direct, but Mike and I hope for our blog to subtly reveal over time how we deal with this exact topic.
I've had to gain everything, from instincts, to list making, to style itself (not that I have it in spades or anything!), to money to buy clothes mostly on my own or with the help of friends along the way. I didn't inherit any of this sort of wisdom or any sense of style for that matter. I learned these things that you seem to really understand already the hard way and have credit card debt to show for it. And back then, before the internet exploded, I didn't even read any magazines or blogs.
Speaking of which, I've recently decided to cancel subscriptions and just go out to the newsstand more often. I can stand around and flip through a magazine, only buying it if it's amazing. I find that those public browsings inflict less psychological damage than sitting under a blanket with bags under my eyes looking at flawless alien models. Maybe it's something about the other people milling about.
Annnyhow, to conclude, I was reminded of a Nicki Minaj quote from the MTV profile on her rise to fame. She is sitting in the studio, frustrated with sub par treatment of some sort, and says something along the lines of: "Is it so wrong that I want expect *quality*? I put quality into everything I do, with every fiber of my being. Is it so wrong to expect the same in return?" I think it's a good point about what you choose to accept into your life and your surroundings, physical or psychic. It should at least be up to the standards you set for your own work, and perhaps already is a reflection of your self-understanding.
Spot on! I've been meaning to write a similar post on my blog, now I don't need to do it. I loathe when fashion magazines or fashion bloggers describes someone's style as minimalist when the person owns 1505252 clothes... like, there are certain famous fashion bloggers who are defined as minimalist-style bloggers (I guess you can tell which bloggers I'm referring to), but they go shopping EVERY day and purchase 4-5 new items each week.. lol, how can someone like this have a minimalist style? Minimalism is not about the aesthetics but rather a reaction against everything that is not minimalism (e.g. over-consumption, too much stuff). I wish people could google or look up the term "minimalism" to get a better grasp on its meaning.
Great article!
Perhaps another good tip would be when you are rummaging the racks in a sale searching for a 'good deal', ask yourself - 'Would I buy this if it is not on sale? Am I desiring this just because it is 50% off?'
It often takes too many shopping faux pas to be wise :(
Oh no, just read my comment and I sound so cocky, which is not intended at all. I don't mean to bash on anyone, haha.
And I forgot to add that this is such an excellent post. I love your blog!
Susie: Thanks so much for your comment. I really needed to write a direct post in order to almost create a set of commandments for myself. In a lot of ways, I'm really undisciplined about spending. But I definitely appreciate the way you & Mike documented your closet clean-outs and trips to Buffalo Exchange. It just goes to show that so much time and energy go into this abstract thing we call 'style.' Nothing about it is easy! Newsstands are great because 5 times out of 10, I end up wandering away from the fashion section and end up buying an article-heavy magazine instead.
Fleurette: I've enjoyed all your posts about minimalism, and I hope you go ahead and write something on this topic too! I agree that minimalism is a lot more rewarding when you embrace everything it means.
K.: I'm so guilty of mindlessly picking things up in sales! Will keep your question in mind the next time I get overwhelmed.
This is great! Lately, i've been teaching myself not to shop when i'm feeling a little blue, trying everything on twice and buying things that only give me butterflies.
Great post! Couldn't agree more on points 3 & 4 I realized only now (after many years of binge shopping) that a list is the key to actually have a wardrobe that reflects your style and the things you really want and avoid massive amounts of useless things in your closet!
i agree about this. i used to just spend money (not even on clothes) on anything and right now while i have no money i'm really taking steps back. i'm going through my wardrobe and keeping good pieces. i really would like more 'staples' and things i can mix and match with everything i own.
"collage nirvana" - I love that phrase; I know exactly what you mean!
Somewhere along the way I learnt to admire from a distance rather than feel a need to possess the item itself, and it's worked out to be much better for me.
A perk to walking away and waiting: because I'm always on a budget, I like to wait for sales if something is expensive and I have a good feeling about it sticking around til then. So I've managed to buy things I really love at a better price for my pocket. If it sells out, well, it's only clothes. Something beautiful always comes along if you're patient.
I so totally agree. I found you thru my friend Stephanie (Style Odyssey) and I'm going to retweet this post. Even tho I've been blogging for almost two years - on streetstyle, and on fashion - I really don't shop, either online or in stores. You'd really have to put a gun to my head, and it had better be loaded, to get me into a mall. I don't subscribe to fashion magazines and while I spend time visiting the blogs I like, I really don't trawl the fashion blogs that most people go to - or the online shops. The most I'll go to a brand is to get their code to link it if I mention it in my post.
And I do tend to wear a 'uniform' - it changes periodically, but I do find that I like my clothes simple. So it's a real treat to see it spelled out what I'm doing right.
Now if only I could give away more of my clothes... but the problem is, just when I do, that's the one thing that 'everyone' wants to wear. I've just literally pulled out a great pair of faded wide legged jeans.
Great post, I"ll be back. (I'm Jill @ http://www.polkadot.tv btw)
Really great post, I really enjoyed it!I have very similar ideas about shopping and waiting out for those perfect garments.
I think your 100% rule is great!! Every time I didn't 100% love the item in the shop, I regretted buying it afterwards. I always try to remember: you think you have to want more than you need but until you have it ll you'll never be free... Wise words.
Love, Betsy.
thank you, that's a great post.
Dandy Al: Yes! I know so many people who cope with stress or low moods by shopping, which can end up perpetuating the blues in the process if you feel unhappy/guilty about your purchase later.
Mariella: Agreed. The tough part is knowing your style well enough to create a coherent & realistic list.
Bethany Kellen: Not having a source of income really puts things in perspective. Good luck hunting down your basics!
lin: I learned that lesson last month when I found a pair of sandals I purchased for full price had been reduced 60%. However, by that point I had worn them quite regularly, so it turned out to be worth it in the end.
polka dot: I don't know if it's necessarily the 'right' way to shop, but it's certainly the most practical route for me. I'm glad it works for you too. And don't feel pressured to give away items that you enjoy wearing!
Betsy: Wise words indeed.
asha & Kazuko: Thank you!
This was a really fantastic post and I've definitely began reeling in my shopping habits. I kind of come from a different place in the sense that I completely believe you can find beautiful, worthwhile things cheaply (i.e. Thank you, eBay)...
My biggest problem with buying that one beautiful investment piece for a lot is that I almost always wear through it... and as it's perfect, I'm scared I won't be able to find it again and it won't be worth it in the end.
G: I agree with you about being able to find quality pieces for much less, and I've had some luck in consignment stores. It's great that you get a lot of wear out of your investment pieces, even if they do get worn to shreds. I always find that the more I spend on an item, the less inclined I am to wear it.
stephanie,
amen to fashion magazine purges and uniforms. i couldn't agree more and this tips are fantastic!
yes! exactly the advice i needed. thank you!
i have been fighting with that awful frustration of not wanting to wear anything in my closet, and not having any money to indulge my material wants.
as a 21 year old college student, i've definitely learned to embrace the uniform.
As Ellen above, this is just the advice I needed. I'm frustrated at not having any money to buy all the clothes I get tempted to on a daily basis. I keep thinking "Im a fashion blogger, I should buy clothes, go to stores, to write about it", but now I'm moving countries and I need to get rid of clothes i dont wear and it's torture to see piles of clothing left unworn. Then it's the "i want that" feeling i get with so many blogs I read...I guess I really need to do the "purge" on my blog read. I already stopped buying certain magazines, as for example In Style that makes me want to go shopping with every page I turn.
I do believe in responsible shopping and I hate the entire "fast fashion" concept.
This is a FANTASTIC post, thanks for writing it!!
erin and Ellen: Glad I could help!
Fashion Limbo: Thanks for your comment! A lot of what exists under the banner of "fashion blogging" is really shopping/haul blogging. Their taste-making influence is huge, but I think the compulsion to shop, and the economics/politics of the fast-fashion that you've described, are sort of hidden beneath the beautiful outfit photos they post.
Im new to your blog!
This post was so inspiring, I know I will be coming back for more. Thank you for a great read :)
xo, B
It's official.
I love your blog.
That is all.
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